🧵 Sewing Pattern Size Comparison: Understanding Sizing Differences Across Brands

"Compare sewing pattern sizes across brands to get the perfect fit for your next project."

When choosing the correct sewing pattern, sizing can make or break your finished garment. If you’ve ever wondered why a size 12 in one brand fits differently than a size 12 in another, you’re not alone. This article explores sewing pattern size comparisons between three of the most popular brands — Butterick, McCall’s, and Simplicity — and explains why even the same size number can yield very different results.

Whether sewing from modern designs or exploring vintage sewing patterns, understanding how sizing varies by brand is crucial to achieving a flattering and comfortable fit.

✂️ Butterick Sewing Patterns: Tend to Run Small

Butterick sewing patterns are a classic choice for dressmakers and home sewists. While their designs are elegant and timeless, one consistent feature across their catalog is the tendency to run smaller than expected.

Key Notes:

Butterick patterns often require sewists to size up compared to their ready-to-wear clothing size.

This is especially noticeable in vintage Butterick patterns, which follow older body measurement standards.

If you're using a pattern like Butterick B4282 (Misses' A-line dress), take accurate measurements and compare them carefully to the Butterick size chart. This brand is great for petite or small-framed individuals, but most sewists must make sizing adjustments.

🪡 McCall's Sewing Patterns: Typically Sized Large

In contrast to Butterick, McCall’s sewing patterns are known to run large. This means a size that should fit based on measurements might end up too loose or boxy — especially in garments like jumpers and shirts.

Key Notes:

Patterns like McCall’s 3719 (Misses jumper and shirt) tend to have more ease built in.

Sewists often need to size down or adjust the fit in key areas, such as the bust, waist, and hips.

For beginners wondering how to choose the right sewing pattern size, McCall’s can be forgiving — but don’t skip making a muslin or test garment to check the fit before sewing your final piece.

🧷 Simplicity Sewing Patterns: Closer to True Size

Simplicity patterns are often considered the most true-to-size among major brands, aligning more closely with modern body measurements.

Key Notes:

Simplicity sizing is more accurate out of the envelope but varies depending on the design.

With patterns like Simplicity 8349 (Misses jumper), you may find less dramatic alterations are needed.

For sewists working with vintage Simplicity patterns, it's still important to double-check the measurements, as older versions may not align with current sizing standards.

📏 Why Sewing Pattern Sizes Are Always Approximate

Regardless of brand, it's essential to understand that sewing pattern sizes are approximate, not exact. Here’s why:

Body shapes vary. No two bodies are identical, and standard sizing is based on averages.

Pattern design affects sizing. Even in the same size, a loose blouse has a different ease than a fitted dress.

Sewing pattern companies use different sizing charts. What one company calls a size 14 may differ significantly from another's.

Even when comparing Butterick, McCall’s, and Simplicity sizing, you’ll find that no size chart guarantees a perfect fit.

🧵 For a Perfect Fit: Create Your Own Sewing Pattern

The only way to achieve a custom fit is by drafting your own sewing pattern based on your measurements. While it takes more effort, it eliminates guesswork and gives you total control over the final result.

Drafting your own patterns ensures a fit tailored to your unique shape.

You’ll better understand garment construction and your body’s proportions.

Ideal for those who sew regularly and want to build a long-lasting, well-fitted wardrobe.

👗 Final Thoughts: Navigating Pattern Sizing Like a Pro

Whether you’re working with new releases or vintage patterns, understanding sewing pattern size differences is essential. Here's a quick recap:

Butterick patterns run small — size up and adjust as needed.

McCall’s patterns run large — test fit and consider sizing down.

Simplicity patterns are generally true to size, but please check your measurements.

Remember, pattern size numbers don’t reflect your clothing size or your body — they’re just a guideline. Use the sizing chart, make a test garment when in doubt, and don’t be afraid to tweak your patterns to suit your shape. If you want perfection, learn to draft your own — and enjoy the journey of becoming a confident, intuitive sewist.

✂️ Pro Tip: Go Beyond Size Numbers

Sizing is just one piece of the puzzle when choosing the correct pattern. If you’re unsure where to begin, check out our helpful guide:

👉 How to Choose the Right Sewing Pattern: A Smart Sewist’s Guide

It covers everything from body measurements and pattern complexity to fabric selection and personal style tips.

💡 Ready to start sewing? Browse vintage and modern sewing patterns in my Bonanza booth — curated just for sewists like you! It covers body measurements, fabric types, pattern complexity, and tips for choosing patterns that match your skill level and style goals.